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Siwa Oasis and short stop in Alexandria

Siwa Oasis and short stop in Alexandria

Siwa Oasis finally … after probably my longest one way continuous trip in one go, which consisted of 11 hours on train “for 190 pounds”  2 hours break in Cairo to stretch my legs and get some fuel another 11 hours on the bus “for 180 pounds” and arrived at the same time as time of departure 9:00  just 24 hours later as I left Luxor on Saturday and arrived to Siwa on Sunday. This time the bus was full so no luxury of four seats for sleeping like I had on the way to Luxor and the air condition was full blast on until last two hours, when the driver decided to turn it off. We had three stops,  which first two I was in comatose / snoozing mode as I cannot say it was full deep sleep that would be exaggerating but the last one on sunrise in the middle of dessert for tea and food “croissant”  was nice. Egyptian truckers stop there so everyone is going for hot tea and smoke, either cigarettes or shisha and I was lucky to stretch my legs and get hot tea with early morning dessert sun warming my face. Too tired and cold to think of photo so just in my memory. Arrived in Siwa and the usual flock of taxi “tricycles” swarmed around the bus and try to pick up the travelers to earn some money. There was this mature couple  I think from Holland if I heard the language well who took the taxi with Egyptian who stopped and asked if I want to come but I politely declined and walked into the town. I was not in mood to spend too much money for some eco lodging without electricity on outskirts of town, rather walked in and observe the town as it wake up to the morning sun. Walking down the main strip of dual road with palms in the middle on the higher pavement separating the two roads, so no one could cross over cross over from one direction to another which in Egypt is good idea based on the driving habits I saw. Hotel sign in front of me and hotel sign on the right hand side opposite of souk so I went to the first one on the right and the guy was helpful to show me the room for 200 pound per night. Room was o.k with nice thick Disney blanket as it was full of the animal cartoon faces but warm 😊 well I said 180 and then I said that will stay 2 nights so he went to 150… deal made and for €7.50 per night it is exactly what I want to pay. Left bags straight in the room,  checked in, paid and out to walk in afternoon sun since after such long journey I need to move a bit. Walked around and this was nice town as the local are waiting for you to approach them in case you are looking for taxi, therefore I was left alone with one tricycle slowed down to ask if I need lift and then left. All over are just date palms and I was walking in the half shade and half sun which was nice after the freezer I got here in, I need to defrost which thankfully happen and I was able to took off the windbreaker and vest as I walked the road. Eventually the road leaded me to Cleopatra pool which is round shaped pool of warm spring in the middle of the road, exactly as the road leading to it, goes around the pool and on sides are cafes and shops for tourist with dust covered bags, clothes, lamps and other items.

PHOTO OF CLEOPATRA POOL

Cafes are lovely decorated tastefully with cushions, carpets and low tables so you can lay down or sit down as you wish to relax with cup of tea. There was no one there except the people from the shops and since I was a tired I opted to sit down for cup of proper Turkish coffee to wake me up. Sat there watching this empty pool was like punishment as the water looks so inviting just to dive in it and refresh from the bus trip but I left my swim trunks in hotel. Ahh I must be like salivating dog watching the bone or meal as the local café boss told me, why don’t I go in to swim …?  I said that I really would love to but I left my swim trunks at hotel and that I will come tomorrow. I kept to sipping my tea and with sad eyes watching this pool of water and bubbles slowly taking the trip from bottom up to the surface as it was hot spring, when the café boss came with swim trunks and said here you go have those and go, change in the back toilets. Ahhh I was so happy and surprised that I was gone like fart from the trousers to change and in the pool seconds later… what a great feeling of fresh water enveloping my body and washing the tiredness of my body and mind away together with dust in seconds I felt like new born again. Was not really hot but comfortably warm and with sun shining on me I was so happy and complacent that It felt like the most natural thing I could do at the present moment. I had the pool all to myself as there was not a soul in…feel like a king in his private bath, only the lovely young girls servants with towels waiting outside the pool were missing from this perfect scenery of king bath. Such a fabulous experience. Let the sun help me dry out as I have did quick job with t-shirt but not fully and since the sun was there it was nice to have feel its rays on my skin. Returned the swim trunks and as way of thanks ordered the fruit juice form the boss. Ahh felt so good now, energized and invigorated I paid for coffee and juice 55 pounds and left the place to walk back to town. On the way I passed the Oracle of Amun temple, which was nice but not as nice as the other temples I saw previously. Did loop around and came back to hotel since I was refreshed and it was warm I changed to flip flops and shorts to let feet and legs get some heat and sun. Lunch time here I was looking around what could I get and I passed the restaurant as it looks too touristy and went around corner where I saw smoke raising, which is good sign “where is smoke, there is food cooking” especially in Egypt. Got amazing falafel with salad in bread for 15 pounds and when paid the generous proprietor, mature distinguish gentleman asked me by pointing on freshly made cup of tea with offering gesture. I said yes I would like tea and he took the cup and handed it over to me, upon which I tried peeled of some notes to pay for and he just smiled and shaked his head together with hand sing signaling no. Ahh such a gentleman and lovely gesture. Finished the tea and went to walk a bit more to remains of fortress Shaiva which is towering above the town with it’s mud walls and towers. Behind it is probably old village from mud houses, what are unhabitated and leads towards the  Mountain f Peace what is above this mud town and with fortress create the protection for this mud town.

 All the mud houses made with support of palm trunks in the ceilings, floors as you can see them in the partially fall down houses looks interesting and some house remains were quite tall and big so when they were habituated that must be quite space to live in. From the top of the Mountain of Peace I could see the whole Oasis with dessert at one side heading to Libya, Siwa Lake on another side behind the Date palms farms with and Jebel ------ -mountain of dead on another and all closed by mountains on another side. Took in all the sight by sitting on the top of the mountain until the wind won over the sun “it is pretty chilly even on lunch time sun at top of the mountain”  and I descend down and took direction to mountain of dead. Midway to mountain of dead my body suddenly lost connection to power source “battery went flat” which was signaled by difficulty to move feet in direction of the mountain of dead with its tombs. Well mind over matter I said to myself and gave order to march towards it as it is only 5 min more. Tombs carved into the hill like in Cappadocia in turkey but different stone and more down than just to the side.

PHOTO OF MOUNTAIN OF DEAD  

Eventually even mind went feck off so I pointed my body towards the hotel and legs pick up the remains of energy left in as I forgot to plug the photovoltaic panels to my ass. Got to the Hotel and sat at terrace to recharge a bit before I will go search  for some food. Two of the hotel staff were sitting there too and one of then tried to talk to me in Arabic, with minimal or better said not success at all but we found the best friend called Google translate and communication started. It was like from the silent movie …. I typed, he read, he wrote I read. His name was Hassan and since he learned that I’m from Slovakia he typed that we are having a lot of snow and ice now at home what is good for business. That left me a bit surprised and I typed back that yes skiing is a good business, just could not comprehend that he would know about it. He replied maybe but I mean for our business to selling you salt. Now I understood as there is huge lake or remains of it where they mine salt for business.

Since we were “talking” I asked him if there is place where I can rent a bike and he took me out to his friend shop to help me get one. Few minutes later we had understating that I want bike for tomorrow not tonight and we went back to hotel, which I used for purchase of some food since I was out and about. Got few oranges, bananas and get back to hotel terrace where I ate half of them. Felt so tired like dog ever chasing cat but never catch one. Took a shower and surprise surprise felt asleep by 18:30 as this was the last time I look at time on the phone before turning it off.

Woke up around 8:20 rested and feeling good “ who would not after such long beauty sleep” and since I liked the gentleman who offered me a cup of tea and his food was good I went back to him for breakfast falafel 😊 this time with mashed potatoes and beans on side for 25 pounds. Next stool was with bread and pastry, so I took square shaped puff pastry style sweet bread and one pastry looked like cinnamon swirl as emergency food supply with bananas and oranges from yesterday. The bike shop of Hassan friend was closed so I asked the guy from next shop now much for a bike, which was 70 pounds. I felt that my back is not in the best shape after such long journey to here that I rather opted for waling to get it moved, plus I have plenty of time and started to walk to Fantasy Island, what supposed to be gem of local tourist attraction. Passed by few tricycles going to or from the dates palm farms I kept going and enjoying the peace and scenery, using the time for communication with Angels and higher self, kind of walking meditation “I might patent it” 😊 After a while one BMW X5 passed me and then nothing all the way to island, which was not to far afterwards. Close to the Island I saw the place where a  lot of dates were on the ground and I’m not sure if this was used as drying facility or they were just left there but I saw an empty place with kind of shadow on the ground what looked like the dates were there a moment ago.

As I saw the island in distance with road connecting to it, I thought that yes this looks like fantasy island, especially in this desert. Upon closing the distance I saw that civilization reached here too as the connection road was littered on each side with trash of plastic in every form and type. The approach through the island was also littered with the trash all the way to the Pharaoh pool what was the same round shape as Cleopatra pool with clear water and bubbles coming to surface from bottom but with no steps to it so no swimming now, what was shame as I was there alone so I could go skinny dipping. Walked towards the beach as that was lake and the view from distance looked nice. At the front I saw this BMW parked under the palm trees with couple sitting and hugging each other so I went other side to leave them in privacy as they did not look happy. Since there was not much on the other side I went back and they were already getting into the car with tissues on their teary eyes. The beach front was really nice and completely deserted, just chairs stay there as soldiers watching the lake and road what crossed the lake. The mountains at the back were looking like a layered sponge cake 😊 the spot was really nice and maybe because it was fantasy island I saw that mountain as cake or maybe it was just my imagination. Sight of seats facing the water were like from some romantic movie and with the sun in my face I could sat there whole day…

having brought my windbreaker as the wind howling across the lake was good for kite surfing or windsurfing but not for a sitting. Sat for a while in semi shelter behind he logs of palm tree trunks, trying to draw the place in my notebook. However the wind and the flies took to my nerves as much as I’m patience man I had enough so I went back. Took the turn towards dessert to see different way coming back and there were only date palms all where can I see but I saw nice pool with some kind of building, like restaurant or mosque beside it, which was nice view.

The road is on the side of the date palm farms and winding its way towards the town with dessert still a bit further to the right. Cars and tricycles over took me in both ways and two of them slowed down asking “Siwa” which was nice as both were locals and want to help me to get to the town faster as not many people walks here, at least I have not seen them. All is taxi, tricycle or donkey pulled cart. Since the road was winding it is was t wards the tow I stayed on it but made decision that I will take tricycle to the salt lake and Cleopatra pool  as I have enough walking and time is getting closer to sunset. Passed the stadium but seems like the games were abandoned like the attendees vehicles …

Seems like this supposed to be sport arena but no one inside and gates were closed, when I saw them from other street. Street was like mud field where tanks went for training exercise but I realized that there is some sort of building going on as the digger was later working on the other side of the street and workers were driving tall pylons to the side of road like some sort of foundation, every 20 meters I would say. Kids running around bare feet, playing in piles of sand  and saying hello to me as I passed by but only the brave ones as most of them run inside when they saw me 😊 Got the water and as soon as I saw the main road / square with tricycles I went to one and asked him to get me to Salt lake, with google translate assistance and calculator for a price which started on 150 and finished on 100 for trip. It took us a good while to get to the salt lake or whatever was left from it with piles of salt everywhere and  lots of diggers filling trucks with salt. We stopped in the middle of the road as there was no point going all the way to other side and I took some photos and piece of raw salt from one of the pile.

On the way back it was a windy so much that I was glad that we had not made it to the other side as I was getting cold on the back with wind ripping through me like through sail on the boat and I just hold to the bars not to blow like a kite. At the edge of the lake is a pumping station with huge generators and pumps what are pumping water from channel beside the lake straight into the dried lake as if they try to fill it again to make more salt. Some salted beef left on the side of the road ….

We got back on the same road I walked yesterday, this time in opposite direction starting at Oracle of Amun towards to Cleopatra pool. HE was nice to stop for me take picture anytime he saw me holding camera in my hand “watching his precious cargo in rear view mirrors”

We made it to Cleopatra pool and I said that I’m staying here, pay him his fare and got off from the back, saying hello to café boss who remembered me. This time there was a lot of tourists, bus loads of teenagers who were probably locals as when they jumped to the pool and have fun café boss just pointed on them saying Egyptians and smile. Mostly only guys in the pool but later  even girls went in  and none of them had burka or any veil at all, just shorts and t-shirt. Also some Chinese tourist and some other nationalities around the pool. Now I understood when the café boss told me yesterday that I’m lucky man to have pool to myself. Waited for a few minutes and teenagers had enough so I could take off t-shirt and dive in to the pool with three local men. One was older like father and two sons as when he went out he had difficult to walk so both supported him and help him dress while the tricycle reversed as close as possible to the pool so he was lifted from the edge of pool onto tricycle. Well I’ve got my swim and moment of peace in the pool and even sun came out from behind clouds as when we were driving towards the sat lake and back the clouds were all over heavy, black and fluffy as if the rain was about pour down. Dried out and sitting down on the sunny part of the pool to dry more also heat up I waited for my juice to be ready at bar, where I left my notebook with drawing in progress of the pool. Son of the café boss was sitting on the bar counter and watching me draw, he tried to make some conversation in English, with few words and pointing to objects such as cat, chair, pool etc… curious kids are good one as they will learn I would say.

He look at drawing and then pointed on object what the drawing represented and I just nod yes and he was happy with himself that he guessed correctly and u was happy that my drawing was recognizable 😊 Hour before sunset I decided it is time to start walking to enjoy the sun and to dry my flip flops plus use the warmth of the sun to keep me warm.

Nearly every, truck, minivan have German plates and on top them the local Egyptian are fixed so you can see the D with European flag and then last one or two digits.

Most of trucks are Mercedes or as they labeled them here Merced  - esbenz with the symbol in the middle as to split the name exactly in the middle. Siwa is nice place to rest and just chill as there is not much to be done there otherwise, except a seen the lakes, dessert, fantasy island and eat local food. For me personally three days were enough but I could say that you can easily spend five there if you get lazy days beside he lake or one day at fantasy island plus day at dessert. Well it is time to hit the road through desert, honestly nothing than flat sand for 5 straight hours with occasional checkpoint there is only straight line on horizon as this is the horizon. Bus fare of 120 pounds to Alexandria.  Again one quick stop at dessert café and change of drivers, the one who slept until now is behind the wheel “ hopefully not sleepy” and the one who drove is now sleeping at the front row seats “surprised that he did not take last row” and we are going and going on the tarmac line through sand, which is sometimes replaced by area of maybe 20 to 50 meters what looks like dirt road between to ends of tarmac as if tarmac shrunk and left  gap. Yesterday’s falafel is today breakfast on the road as there is nothing in the dessert café than tea and sweets, any types of sweet cakes from chocolate, croissants, marble cakes and tea with three huge spoons of sugar… have not seen eat so much sugar in my life…. Everything is sweet here more than anywhere else, even in Turkey there was not so much sweets …. Maybe it is the hot climate or dryness but it looks like most of people burned the sugar sufficiently as there are not that may obese people as in States if can I compare countries I visited. Ahh dromedary in the middle of the road 😊 not like those tamed ones at Sahara dessert but real wild one …

 I have not seen anything like this…. Landfill in dessert filled with trash, miles on…. Smoke coming out of the plastic trash left at dessert to its own. Civilization is here and we can see its result as plastic overtake planet and the prime example was when we stop bus at coffee and the little boy no more than 5 years old went down the steps, stopped at the last step and throw the plastic bottle out of the bus on the ground and went back to the bus, not mentioning that the bin was just on the other side of the bus at café… if that is what we teaching our kids not wonder that planet is where it is now. Dessert of rubbish / waste is the last thing I would like to see on this trip but hey it is what it is. Well eventually we made it to Alexandria at least I thought so, when I saw the first complex  of apartments or holiday homes at the sea side but after about five minutes of watching the those complexes the sign on the road said 150km to Alexandria … :-o and it was 150 km of holiday complex, one to next other with all the names like long Island 1, Long Island 2, 3 as that is the real stuff not one but three with the same name just different number all the way to Alexandria and they were still building more. Well two hours later we were in Alexandria, now for real. The bus station is huge place with stands covered by tin roofs and every possible bus, mini bus, micro bus, taxi and car is here all organized by size, starting with buses. Of course there are many shops, tea places, shisha places and food stalls of every type of food. Since I have purchased my ticket online to First class as I would like to try it if it is possible to sleep on the bus, since they are advertising the extra wide seats with recliner and only one seat in row for 469 pounds so €23 all the way to Sharm El-Sheik as the direct to Dahab is for 380 pounds but regular only and I had two long journey in regular done so this time I put 100 pound more and hopefully it will be worth. Luggage left in the office of Blue Bus after the assistance of google translate, since I have no Arabic except please and thank you. Walk to city was nice and the streets are bustling with people at 17:00 so I was like live exhibition for local people as they probably are not used to see tall blond man in shorts, t-shirt and five fingers Vibram sole shoes every day. Yes another photo shoot with the adventurous teenagers and shouts from local girls “Where you from, what you name” is already usual sight so I do not even blink anymore. Walked down the tram line

All the way to main train station and square where is the roman amphitheater but it was already locked so I tried to take phot through railings and then went to dinner for koshari this time for 13 pounds and it was nice tasty and spicy, still warm in the belly after two hours. Then walked through various streets to observe all the LADA 2017 taxis what is some sight as I grow up on the LADA cars in Slovakia but no way in that amount like here.

Literally every taxi is LADA 2107 and plenty of private LADA 1300 are on the streets of Alexandria. This must be some gift from Russia as not even in Slovakia it was easy to get LADA back in day of my youth. Markets on the streets are amazing, fresh fruits, foods and so many people walking around, so lively but also dirty. Found Vodafone office so I can buy extra data as the wi fi here is not the best, more less poor for anything more that what’s up is not sufficient. Got 8GB for 150 pounds i.e € 7.5 and I think that this is good deal especially if the 4G from Vodafone is letting me streaming The Simpsons and Graham Norton in case of movie evening and also uploading those letters and photos here. Since I was not really in mood for town I just get my goal as food, Vodafone and I’m done with  Alexandria but while I’m here I went to promenade to the sea front as this is nice and there are many fancy hotels and I overheard American people so it must be safe if they came here.

Walked a bit through the streets, to keep local girls on their toes and her the giggle every time some of them pass me by. As everywhere big towns equals more beautiful girls and in this case less hijab and more European style clothing …. Very nice walk through streets it was, in deed   😊 The housing is mostly consisting of high raiser buildings as we know them from Slovakia but these are more elaborate rather than just plain square panels. Nice balconies and windows with ornaments. However this picture is not doing the justice as i saw much nicer buildings after sunset but my camera is not so great in the dark.

For those who ever been to Bratislava Petruska / Petrzalka that was the feel it evoke in me just nicer finish and at present gated with security at the gate. Well since it was noisy and I have no real desire to walk around it I started walk back to bus station through different road, which was a diplomatic quarter as there were few nice houses what I passed by that were embassies and also general areas had good upkeep and the apartment blocks looks like newly build. Well Alexandria could be nice but since I’m not in to towns I will skip it and go to Dahab, also the forecast for tomorrow and day after tomorrow rain all day so no way I’m staying here when the rain is the thing I run away from 😊

Here we go, already on the board of Blue Bus…. bye bye Alexandria…

From the Blue Bus....

From the Blue Bus....

Last day in Luxor and Felluca

Last day in Luxor and Felluca